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May 27, 2023

THE LAZY BERKSHIRE GARDENER: Week of June 1, 2023

Now that soil has warmed, summer-loving vegetables can be planted. Keep your

Now that soil has warmed, summer-loving vegetables can be planted.

Keep your eyes on your neighbors’, ahem, landscapes for planting ideas. I loved the crabapples blooming around here in succession. It seemed my whole street bloomed for a month. At my house, I have this old weedy crabapple tree. We discussed cutting the whole thing down and letting the stump sprout new suckers for a new tree. That seemed a bit drastic especially when the tree (that must have caught wind of our intentions) came out in full bloom this spring! It still had dead branches and a silly lop-sided growth, but we couldn't bear to cut it down to the ground.

Selective trimming of dead wood has led to a healthier looking if still lopsided tree. By waiting until leaves had emerged on branches, we could identify the dead sections and choose what to trim more easily. Having exposed wounds when insects and fungus are floating around could pose problems, but the tree is actively growing and more able to heal itself at this time of year. The tree had a dense mess of wooded area just to the north and it grew naturally to the light. That wooded area is all gone now (cleared for a house). I’m hoping that it sends more growth to the north and changes shape.

I enjoyed planting containers this past weekend. I should say I unplanted then replanted. I actually dug up pansies to make room for annuals that love the hot weather. The pansies went into smaller repurposed ten-inch pots that I can move around the landscape into shaded spots where perennials have faded or where I need a bit of color. They will last for another six weeks and even rebloom if I give them a hard prune in July as long as I water and fertilize them.

Now that soil has warmed, summer-loving vegetables can be planted. However, you still have time. I would love to spend 72 hours in the garden, but I get too stiff. I find it best to be lazy and spread out the many planting tasks. I’ll try to get an hour or so of planting done each evening this next week.

Unfortunately, my tomato starts got chilled in front of an open window and have failed to grow. So much for my seed starting. Tomato seedlings have appeared in the bed where I had tomatoes last year and they look far better than what's still in the seedling pots inside. Sigh. That's the power of warm soil.Part of what slows down my planting is that I need to anticipate the full growth of my vegetables. I plan and place supports or the mechanical barriers and protection I will need to combat the most common pests. By including those protections at the beginning, I minimize pest pressures later.

My weak seedlings will still go in pots (maybe) but I also purchased some larger tomato starts. I will plant one each of six different tomato plants to beat the weather this summer. Some tomatoes do better with more heat than others; some are less prone to fungal disease and handle humid summers. By planting a mix, I have a better chance of getting the fresh tomato flavor I love. Peppers and eggplant can be planted now as well. Install cages or your chosen supports as you put in your tomato starts. If you wait until plants are bigger, you risk damaging the roots when you add supports. You need supports to provide air circulation around the plants and prevent fungus. Also, supports will help you reach the ripe tomatoes!

I like to put a border or center row of basil between the tomato plants. The basil repels insect pests, specifically flies and hornworm. I will also plant zinnia and dill among all my vegetable beds. Not only do these flowers look pretty, they attract parasitic wasps and other beneficials that attack the bad guys.

Seeds of yellow squash, zucchini and winter squash can all be planted in the garden now. I will plant one each of a bush or mounding variety of yellow squash, zucchini and even cucumber in a raised bed of 4 feet wide by 6 feet long. If you are planting transplants, use a cardboard tube (like sliced from a paper towel tube) as a protective collar to keep destructive pests away from the stems. Cut the tube about 3 inches long so 1.5 inches is below the soil line and 1.5 inches above. If sowing seeds now, put the collar into your planting hill first then put seed into the center of the tube.

Winter squash, like pumpkin, needs 12 feet or more to grow best. My best luck with pumpkin, gourds and squash is to let them launch out of the compost pile and through a bed of sturdy perennial goldenrod. The goldenrod will support many beneficial insects that keep pest pressure down. The goldenrod can also hold the squash vine and flowers up above the soil.

I plant beans where my peas are growing. As the peas finish, the beans will begin to produce. After getting my seeds in the ground, I’ll use a row cover of spun polyester to keep pests from discovering the young seedlings. Typically, I lay the fabric over the top of the bed loosely and weigh down the sides and corners with stones. I leave enough room for plants to grow about six inches before I remove the cover. Alternatively, arches of flexible tubing or aluminum can be affixed to a raised bed and the fabric spread across those. Once the seedlings grow bigger, a few chomped leaves by insects will be less of a concern. And remember, covers need to be removed once you have flowers or there will be no pollination and no beans!

I like to fill my hanging basket with flowering annuals that will be upright or trail down the side but especially to attract pollinators and hummingbirds. Though red flowers are known to attract them, hummingbirds will find any tubular flower that produces nectar. I hang my basket close to a window that I look out every morning at breakfast. Hummers swing by for a sip in the cool of the morning and again in the evening.

As part of preparing my containers, I will be bringing my dahlias out this week and put them in the shade for a few hours longer each day before potting them up outdoors to stay in their summer home. Sending them out too soon will damage their leaves just like if you go outdoors without sunscreen.

Look for new growth on your frost-damaged perennials. Trim back blackened leaves to a healthy leaf node and keep plants well-watered as new growth catches up. Plan to add fertilizer in about one month to encourage more healthy growth.

Sadly, I had no flowers on my peach trees this spring. I probably pruned them off. I heard from some gardeners that they had no flowers either but probably lost them to frost. While the tasty fruit will be missing, I’ll focus on the healthy leaf growth and form of the tree this season. My use of copper fungicide over the winter has protected the peach leaves from leaf curl. The leaves look much better this season. Next year, I plan to have abundant peaches. At least this lazy gardener doesn't have to worry about too many peaches weighing down the limbs this year.

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I call myself the Lazy Berkshire Gardener because I don't want to work too hard in my gardens. I want to enjoy them. I find it easier to observe my landscape and let the compost happen, the water pool up or daisies to self-sow. I look for ways to do the minimum task for the biggest impact. For example, mulching is better than spraying and much better than weeding all season. I look for beautiful low-maintenance plants that thrive in or at least tolerate my garden conditions. Plus, I’m willing to live with the consequences if I miss something.